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The Pacific Surfliner

Here in New England, as well as in the Midwest and Middle Atlantic states, what was a relatively mild winter has been rather reluctant to leave. We had snow last week, our ski areas have the best conditions of the season and no one has even begun working on a garden. So this might be just the time for a little visit to the sun, and what better place than sunny Southern California.

Surprisingly, out in the land of the automobile, Amtrak has created one of its best run and most enjoyable rail lines. The Pacific Surfliner travels between San Diego and Los Angeles, with four of the trains continuing on to either Santa Barbara or San Luis Obispo. Depending upon the season, there are between ten and twelve roundtrip runs daily.

Start your trip in Los Angeles' beautifully restored Union Station. It is wonderful to see this station not only faithfully restored, but once again becoming a vital and busy part of Los Angeles. For so many years, the once grand and beautiful train stations in this country languished. They had fallen into disuse, followed by disrepair. Fewer travelers were taking trains and people were abandoning downtown, the site of most train stations. However, communities began to realize what they would be losing if these grand structures were destroyed. In Washington, D.C., New York City, Philadelphia, Chicago, Halifax, Montreal and many other cities, once vibrant train stations were restored to their past glory, often turned into destinations themselves.

Los Angeles' Union Station was one of the grandest train stations in the nation, embodying a style very different from the eastern stations. Built in a mission style, with carved wood ceilings, tiled roof and beautiful murals, Union Station is right at the heart of downtown Los Angeles. A movie star in its own right, Union Station has appeared in many films. You may remember it as the site where Barbra Streisand disembarked from the train following her trip to Washington D.C. in The Way We Were.

Luckily for all who are interested in trains, historic sites, and architecture, Union Station is now restored to what it once was. The carved ceilings look as beautiful as ever, the wooden booths and seats have been redone, the art deco lighting is back and the station looks wonderful. It is the terminus for Amtrak trains coming in from north, south and east, as well as numerous commuter trains.

If you arrive at the station early, or have a layover in Los Angeles, be sure to visit Olivera Street and El Pueblo Historical Monument. Right across the street from Union Station, this location is the oldest part of the City of Los Angeles and contains 27 historic buildings, a traditional Mexican style plaza area and the shops and restaurants of Olivera Street. Complementary, docent led tours are held on Wednesday through Saturday at 10:00 and 11:00 a.m. and noon. Meet next to the Firehouse on the southeast corner of the Plaza. For further information call (213) 628-1274.

After leaving Los Angeles, the train travels south and finally hits the coast shortly after leaving San Juan Capistrano. If you have time, get off the train at this stop and spend a few hours in town, catching a later train south. The station is only three blocks from the Mission, which is a beautiful example of Old Spanish California. In addition, the train depot itself offers a choice of two dining establishments, Sarducci's ((949) 493-9593) and the Freight House ((949) 487-3297). You can easily spend two or three hours on a layover in this town.

Shortly after leaving Capistrano, the train hits the Pacific Ocean. Going south, sit on the right side of the train for the best view, the left side when going north. Another stop you might want to consider, particularly if you are traveling with a child, is Legoland in Oceanside. A very interesting theme park based on the popular Lego toys, Legoland is fun for adults and children alike. Amtrak offers packages to Legoland, including train transportation, lodging and admission.

Upon arrival in San Diego, you will encounter another lovingly restored train station, formerly the San Diego station on the old Santa Fe line. The colonial mission style station was built in 1915 for passengers who would be arriving at the 1915 Panama-California Exposition. The station also houses the Santa Fe Historical Society and the research library of the San Diego Railroad Museum.

San Diego is a very easy city to get around in without a car. There is a good public transit system as well as a ferry to Coronado Island. If you get over to Coronado, pay a visit to the Hotel Del Coronado, which you might remember as the hotel in Some Like It Hot. The Del, as it's lovingly called, is a big, old Victorian wedding cake hotel right on the beach.

Spend some time in San Diego's Gaslamp Quarter and Old Town, where there is such a wide variety of restaurants that you will surely find something to your liking. On a recent trip we ate at Berta's Latin American Restaurant, a small place with a tasty menu of Latin American dishes and a pleasant little dining patio. (Berta's Latin American Restaurant, 3928 Twiggs Street, San Diego, (619) 295-2343)

Want to try something different? Take the "Ghosts and Gravestones Tour", conducted by Historic Tours of America. I am usually not a tour person, particularly in a city that I know very well. However, we have taken other similar tours, such as a voodoo tour in New Orleans, mainly because my 13 year old son likes them. Well, this tour is not only fascinating, but very informative and well run, and something I would highly recommend. For further information call Historic Tours of America at (800) 868-7482.

San Diego is a great city for visitors, and the Pacific Surfliner is the best way to get there. Onboard amenities are among the best Amtrak has to offer, including electrical outlets at all seats and audio and video in Business Class. The attractive cafe offers regional specialties and local wines and microbrews.

Find out about city tours in San Diego

If you are looking for a travel guide to San Diego, I would recommend the "Insiders Guide to San Diego." I really like Insiders guides, because they provide much more than just factual information about attractions, accommodations and dining. The San Diego guide, for example, includes a discussion of aspects of the city of San Diego, such as history, culture and some of the lesser known neighborhoods, that are typically not included in other guides.