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Take the Train to Atlantic City

For so many of us who grew up in New York and New Jersey, the warm summer heat brings back vivid memories of the Jersey Shore. For me, that means Atlantic City, where I spent many teenage summers. I had not been back for almost thirty years, although I could not help but follow the development of Atlantic City's gaming industry. Three years ago, my train travels took me back to this seaside city, and what a pleasant surprise that was.

The Altantic City Beach

Getting There

Although Amtrak does not go directly to Atlantic City, New Jersey Transit does travel from the 30th Street Station in Philadelphia to the Atlantic City train station. Amtrak trains connect to Philadelphia from Washington D.C., New York and many other major cities. New Jersey Transit trains travel to Atlantic City at least seven times a day (sometimes more, depending on season and day of the week) and the fare is very affordable at $6.00 per person, less for children. The train is comfortable and the ride takes about two hours. For schedule information call New Jersey Transit, (800) 772-2222 (in N.J.), (215) 569-3752 (in Pa.), (973) 762-5100 (elsewhere) or go to the website.

The point of arrival for trains is the Atlantic City train station, right next door to the new convention center. There are free jitneys between the train station and the casinos, boarding in front of the convention center. Even if you are not staying at one of the casino hotels, you can use the shuttle. Just locate the hotel which is closest to your destination, and ask to be taken there.

The Beach

Although the casinos are the most publicized attractions in Atlantic City, there are many other reasons to visit this town, most notably the beach. Having been away for so long, I did not really know what I would find, although I did not expect to see the beach that I knew so long ago. I had read about extensive shore erosion along the East coast, as well as water pollution problems, and knew that this had probably impacted Atlantic City. However, I found beaches that were very clean and practically empty, since so many of the city's visitors are inside the casinos. During my three day visit, I encountered very few beach visitors and most of those were surfers or beachcombers. It was glorious!

The Jitneys Atlantic City

Because I write about train travel, I include only those locations which can be reached by foot, train, or other public transportation. The Atlantic City jitneys are the in-town transportation system, traveling parallel to the Boardwalk, from one end of the city to the other. They also connect the Boardwalk to the Marina area. The jitneys run along Pacific Avenue, one block inland from the Boardwalk, and the fare is $1.50 one-way, $.50 for seniors. The jitneys run 24 hours a day, 365 days a year and are a reliable and convenient way to get around town. For maps and schedules call (609)344-8642 or go to the website.

What to See

If you are only planning a brief visit, with or without a child, I would suggest the Ocean Life Center, New Hampshire Avenue and the Bay, (609) 344-2439. This nature center has some excellent maritime and weather related exhibits and a hands-on tide pool with a broad array of touchable sea creatures. The sight of a little child touching her first sea star is worth a visit alone. The awe, the fear, the "Ooh, it's not yucky!" There is also an aquarium, with a wide variety of fish and coral. The Ocean Life Center is at historic Gardner's Basin, located on New Hampshire Avenue, at the north end of the city. Take the #3 Green Jitney, going towards the Marina.

Atlantic City is so much more than casinos and Miss America and has a long and interesting history. Visit the Atlantic City museum at the Garden Pier, and view memorabilia from the grand hotels, the old shops, the Steel Pier and other locations which are only memories today. I particularly enjoyed seeing the old tableware, menus and postcards from Chalfonte-Haddon Hall, where I used to stay with my family. There is also a video of Atlantic City history and an art museum at the same location. The museum is open daily from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and admission is free.

Hungry yet? Try Angeloni's II at Arctic Avenue at Georgia, (609) 344-7875, which has been serving delicious Italian meals to Atlantic City residents and visitors for forty years. Angeloni's is at the south end of Atlantic City, a few blocks off the boardwalk. Take the #1 Pink jitney to Georgia Avenue and walk one block inland to Arctic Avenue. The Italian food is authentic, the portions are large and the service very attentive. There is also a very extensive wine list. The menu is so lengthy and varied that if you can't find something here that you want, you are just not hungry.

As we left town, Hurricane Floyd was approaching. The waves became huge, the beaches were even more deserted than usual, and as we stood on the Boardwalk and looked out to sea, we could almost believe that there were no casinos behind us, just grand old hotels and their long departed guests.