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Towns Along the Downeaster

Just in time for your fall foliage tour planning, The Train Traveler is featuring a series of columns about the towns along Amtrak's wildly successful Downeaster line. As a previous column notes, the Downeaster runs from Boston's North Station through northern Massachusetts, New Hampshire and the southern Maine coast, terminating in Portland, Maine. Each of the towns where the Downeaster stops has its own character; in my travels, I have met folks who spent a day or two riding the Downeaster for a few stops, disembarking, exploring a town, and reboarding to go to the next town.

We begin our series with the town of Exeter, New Hampshire. This column, and the other New Hampshire columns, are written by New Hampshire writer Tina Coruth.

Exeter, New Hampshire

Settled in 1638, Exeter is one of the first four towns founded in New Hampshire. It served as the capital during the Revolutionary War. Both the fresh water Exeter River and the salty Squamscott River run through Exeter adding to the charm of this historic town with its tree lined streets and quaint buildings.

The Downeaster Exeter station is located at 60 Lincoln Street, a short walk from the downtown area. Telephones are available at this unmanned station. Taxi service provides in town transportation; Ed's Taxi, (603)773-0070, comes highly recommended.

Exeter is a walker's haven. The Exeter Historic Walking Tour booklet lists 40 sites and is available from the Exeter Area Chamber of Commerce. Call (603)772-2411, or drop by the office at 120 Water Street, which is open Monday through Friday from 8:30 until 4:30. The Chamber offers an information-packed vacation kit (including a map of all the antique shops in town) that can be ordered for a $5.50 shipping and handling fee or picked up at the office.

Strolling through Exeter's many parks is a treat. Swasey Parkway runs for a mile along the Squamscott River. Enjoy the view of the river and the boats as you rest on one of the many benches along the way. Two cannons donated by the US Navy Department in 1897 are on display at Gilman Park on Bell Avenue, which also overlooks the river. The Navy reserved the right to take the cannons back, if it ever needs them! The World War I Memorial in Gale Park, located on the corner of Linden and Front Streets, was sculpted by Exeter born Daniel Chester French, who also sculpted the Lincoln Memorial in Washington DC. Two more of French's sculptures can be found a short walk away at the Exeter Historical Society (hours Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday 2:00 - 4:30) on 47 Front Street, (603)778-2335. In addition to changing exhibits, the Historical Society houses a large collection of genealogical records.

Walk into history when you visit the American Independence Museum and Museum store in the Ladd-Gilman House located downtown at 1 Governor's Lane where you will find an original Dunlap Broadside of the Declaration of Independence on display. Learn about the house and the era during a guided tour of this 1700s Registered Landmark. Open May 1- October 31, Wednesday through Sunday, call (603)772-2622 for admission fees; children 6 and under admitted free.

The hub of the historical district and center of downtown Exeter is the Bandstand at the intersection of Water and Front Streets. Find the Bandstand and you are within easy distance of shopping, restaurants, and lodging.

The Chocolatier at 27 Water Street beckons you with a wide variety of hand molded chocolates made fresh on the premises, as well as nuts, chocolate covered popcorn, and jellies. Beautiful jewelry, pottery, wood, glass, and print crafts are available for sale at Exeter Fine Crafts 61 Water Street. Each piece is the work of a talented Northern New England craftsperson. Add whimsy to your shopping trip at Whirlygigs toy store, 107 Water Street.

Whether it's a sandwich on freshly baked bread at the Baker's Peel, 231 Water Street (603)778-0910 or sushi at the Penang and Tokyo restaurant, 97 Water Street (603)778-8388, you won't have to go far to appease your appetite. Sal & Anthony's, 69 Water Street (603)778-1949, offers fine Italian dining in a cozy atmosphere, while the award winning Terrace Restaurant at The Inn & Conference Center of Exeter, 90 Front Street, (800)782-8444, offers fine dining in a casual setting. Reservations at the Terrace Restaurant are recommended.

Many of Exeter's accommodations are historical treasures. The Governor Jeremiah Smith House Inn, 41 Front Street (603)778-7770, built in the early 18^th century has eight guestrooms furnished with period pieces. Service includes a complimentary breakfast and afternoon tea. Listed in the National Registry of Historic Places, The Inn By The Bandstand, 4 Front Street (603) 772-6352 - with its curved banister, high ceilings, and antique furnishing brings the traveler back to the early 19^th century when it was constructed.

If you plan to visit during autumn, check the peak foliage reports, which are available in the fall, online at www.visitnh.gov or call (800)258-3608 and bring your camera!

And for those who are seeking outdoor adventures in New Hampshire, New Hampshire Outdoors offers lots of options.