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On the border of Kansas and Missouri, Kansas City
is a town with more than 200 fountains, more than any city except
Rome, and with 155 miles of boulevard, more than even Paris. Kansas
City is also home to great barbecue and steak, the bebop style of
music, and excellent jazz.
The Amtrak
Southwest Chief travels daily between Chicago and Los Angeles,
stopping in Kansas City on the way. Amtrak also operates two interstate
lines stopping in Kansas City, the Kansas
City Mule, which travels daily between St. Louis and Kansas
City, and the Ann
Rutledge, traveling daily between Kansas City and Chicago.
The Greater
Kansas City Convention and Visitors Bureau is downtown, in City
Center Square, at 1100 Main Street, Ste. 2550, (816) 221-5242, (800)
767-7700. The Kansas City Trolley Co. runs replicas of historic
trolleys between downtown and the River Market area, Crown Center,
Westport and the Country Club Plaza, so you can get to just about
all of the major neighborhoods in Kansas City. The drivers of these
trolleys are very knowledgeable about local history, so don't hesitate
to ask any questions that you might have. For information about
routes and fares, call (816) 471-6050.
The
highlight of my most recent visit to Kansas City was the gloriously
restored Union
Station. The restoration is not only architecturally impressive,
but is also a prime example of how expansive, historic buildings
can be successfully transformed into beautiful multi-use destinations.
Union Station Kansas City opened on October 30, 1914, the third
largest train station in the country and a building designed to
last over 200 years. For decades, Union Station served the needs
of rail travelers. Despite being placed on the National Register
of Historic Places, however, Union Station suffered deterioration,
due to the decline in passenger rail. Luckily, the voters of Kansas
and Missouri made a financial commitment to save this architectural
gem and the major part of its restoration, and transformation, has
been completed. And, passenger
rail itself has finally returned to this grand terminal.
Union
Station now offers daily, behind-the-scenes tours, featuring
characters from its rich history. You can also see a one-woman,
multi-media show that features Union Stations' major historical
events. In addition to these historical presentations, visitors
to Union Station will find a wonderful planetarium, with laser shows
for children and adults and other multimedia presentations and the
City Extreme Screen Theater, towering five stories tall and featuring
the only 3D theater in a 200 miles radius. The Theater features
a fascinating National Geographic film about Lewis and Clark, a
3D film about the very unusual circus troupe, Cirque du Soleil,
and the Haunted Castle in 3-d. Something for everyone.
The other major venue within Union Station is
Science City, featuring hands-on exhibits for adults and children.
Visitors can create music, edit a newspaper, solve a crime, ride
a bike on a wire suspended 30 feet above ground, take a guided tour
through the human body, and so much more.
Within Union Station there is also an excellent
restaurant, in the classic steak house tradition. Pierponts,
named for J.P. (John Pierpont) Morgan, a railroad baron of the first
order, features 1914 decor, beautifully restored to its original
glory. The menu offers classic Kansas City steak
and seafood entrees and is open daily. For reservations, call
(816) 221-5111.
Although you can spend many enjoyable hours within
Union Station and its various entertainment venues, there is lots
more to see and do in Kansas City. One of my favorites is the somewhat
odd, but very enjoyable, Arabia Steamboat Museum. In 1856, the steamer
Arabia sank to the bottom of the Missouri River, and was finally
recovered and lifted 132 years later. This exhibit is filled with
river and steamer lore and features the cargo, all intact, that
was recovered from the Arabia, such as perfume, kitchenware, whiskey
and precious cargo of the day. This museum is located in the River
Market area, at 400 Grand Avenue, (816) 471-1856.
Kansas City is also home to two other excellent
museums, both in the same location at the 18th and Vine complex,
1616 East 18th Street. The Negro
Leagues Baseball Museum, (816) 221-1920, documents the life
and history of African American baseball players, and the American
Jazz Museum, (816) 474-8463, honors the greats of jazz, including
Louis Armstrong, Charlie Parker and Ella Fitzgerald, and features
hundreds of jazz CDs in an interactive sound studio. These museums
offer a joint ticket so call either number for information.
Speaking of jazz, there is no room here to list
the many jazz clubs and venues located in Kansas City. Just call
the Jazz Hotline at (816) 753-JASS(5277) to hear several minutes
worth of current, local jazz event information.
After carousing at the jazz clubs, you'll need
a place to stay. There are many places to stay in Kansas City, but
most of them are large, chain hotels. Although usually comfortable,
I find these sorts of places to be quite sterile. If your tastes
run more to bed and breakfasts, contact Bed and Breakfast Kansas
City, Box 14781, Lenexa, Kansas 66285, (913) 888-3636. You might
also try the Raphael
Hotel a very European style hotel, formerly an early twentieth
century apartment building. Now beautifully restored, the Raphael
is a member of the National
Trust for Historic Preservation. The Raphael also houses a very
good restaurant, with a genteel yet sophisticated decor, and a constantly
changing continental menu. The Raphael is at 325 Ward Parkway, on
the Country Club Plaza, (816) 756-3800, information@raphaelkc.com,
for toll free reservations call (800) 821-5343.
When
I planned my trip to Kansas City, it was very difficult to find
a travel guide that focused on that town alone, as opposed to Missouri
or the Midwest. I usually prefer local guides, as opposed to statewide
or regional guides, because I have found that the larger the area
covered, the more generic the coverage. However, I did finally find
a guide that was quite helpful, City
Smart: Kansas City by Michael Flynn and Linda Kephart Flynn.
In it's second edition, published in 1999, the
book will provide you with the basics as well as many unusual suggestions
for things to do and see. Since the book is three years old, you
may find that some of the contact telephone numbers are incorrect,
but basically this guide is very helpful one.
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