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Multi-Season Montana

In wintertime, the mountains of Montana offer exciting alternatives to the often crowded resorts of the Utah and Colorado Rockies, and you can get there by Amtrak. One of the best ski areas in Montana is Big Mountain, near the town of Whitefish. Skiers can take the Amtrak Empire Builder, leaving from either Seattle, Washington or Portland, Oregon and disembarking in Whitefish, Montana. Both runs depart at 4:45 pm, merge at Spokane, Washington and arrive in Whitefish around 8:00 am the next day. Or, take the train from Chicago, leaving around 2:00 in the afternoon and arriving around 9:00 the next evening. This line also stops in Minneapolis/St. Paul around 10:00 p.m. the first night. Upon arrival, skiers are transported directly from the train station to the mountain.

Amtrak offers Big Mountain packages, including lodging and ski tickets. Call 800-858-3930 for further information about these tours. RMA Tours is also offering a package through March 31, 2002, that includes round-trip rail fare from Chicago/Minneapolis (and points in between) to Whitefish, five nights lodging at the Hibernation House in Glacier Village at Big Mountain, breakfast daily, four days of skiing and ground transportation. The very reasonable cost for this package is $459.00 per person. RMA Tours can be contacted at 800-841-9800.

If you are an independent traveler and choose to make your own arrangements, you will find a that Big Mountain has a range of very good lodging, from affordable chalet rooms to large condominiums. My favorite is the Alpinglow, a traditional ski lodge right next to lifts. The lodge is moderately priced and very comfortable. The Alpinglow restaurant has gorgeous views and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.

For that special dinner, try Cafe Kandahar. This excellent restaurants dinner menu includes entrees such as elk carpaccio and entrees including duck, salmon, lamb, quail and a daily pasta special. Reservations are necessary and can be made at 406-862-6098.

The lift tickets at Big Mountain range from $47.00 for an adult day pass to $34.00 for a junior and $39.00 for a senior pass. There are discounts for college students and under 6 children are free. There is also a nordic ski area at the resort.

Summer

In the summer, these same mountains offer visitors the splendid beauty of Glacier National Park. The Empire Builder, the same line that travelers take to Whitefish in the winter, makes seasonal stops at East Glacier Park Station. This year that station will reopen on April 30, 2003 and, depending on the weather, stays open until some time in October. The East Glacier Park station is about 80 miles east of Whitefish, an hour and half ride.

The Glacier Park Lodge, right outside the park, is also called the Big Tree Hotel and when you arrive you will see why. The hotel is surrounded by many majestic Douglas fir trees; yet even their beauty and size cannot match the ring of snow-capped mountains that surround the hotel.

When you arrive at the East Glacier Park Amtrak station, you will be right across from the lodge. You will be picked up by the hotel's antique red checker cab and brought the short distance to the hotel entrance. It is no coincidence that the train station is next to the hotel. The Glacier Park Lodge was built by the Great Northern Railway as a hostelry for rail travelers and it remains so to this day.

The Glacier Park Lodge has an outdoor heated pool, a golf course and access to the trails that meander throughout the park. You can explore the park by horseback, boat ride or by hiking. And, don't forget to seek out the location of the fascinating mountain goats that inhabit the rocky hillsides in the park. There are many different organized tours to choose from as well as a shuttle to transport visitors who wish to hike throughout the park.

Now, in the midst of winter, you can head out to Whitefish and enjoy a ski vacation. Or, tired of winter, you can sit down and start preparing for the summer ahead.