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Halifax, Canada

Canada's railroad, VIA Rail, extends from one end of Canada to the other, from Halifax, Nova Scotia to Prince Rupert, British Columbia. VIA's Ocean line extends from Montreal to Halifax, traveling through rolling hills and pastureland. The Ocean offers Economy and Easterly class accommodations. Economy is similar to coach on Amtrak, but offers more flexibility. Travelers can purchase a ticket between two destinations and can get on and off any given train any number of times. It is therefore a great way to explore a region.

Halifax Harbour

Easterly class offers a semi-private berth or a private bedroom, which both transform into seating areas by day. The berth option is just as it sounds, an upper or lower berth with a pullover curtain, in a car with other berths, and access to a lavatory. Think of the wonderful scene with Marilyn Monroe and Jack Lemmon in the upper berth in Some Like it Hot. This is a very economical way to travel, and far more comfortable than coach if one plans to sleep on the train.

The Ocean's two person bedroom is larger than the standard, two person sleeper on Amtrak, with more walking room. Those of you familiar with the standard Amtrak sleeper know that when the bunks are down, there is absolutely nowhere to walk - just crawl in, crawl out. When the very comfortable VIA armchairs are converted into bunks, there is still room to walk into the sleeper. In addition, each sleeper has a private lavatory, with sink and toilet, and access to showers at the end of the car. Toilet kits are provided, so don't bother bringing your own.

All Easterly class passengers have access to the Park Car Lounge and the dome car, offering spectacular views. Complimentary breakfast is included in Easterly class, and it offers an excellent and filling choice of items, including fruit and yogurt, muffins, croissants, jams and jellies, juice, coffee and tea. Other meals are not included in the price, but the food in the diner is very reasonably priced.

The Ocean arrives in Halifax in the early evening, and passengers disembark into the small, beautifully restored train station. This station is reminiscent of the days when a train station was an integral part of a city, and sat firmly at the center of downtown. The Halifax station is downtown, within walking distance of the harbor and of many excellent hotels and restaurants.

Halifax is the perfect city for walking. The harbor is active, with both working and pleasure vessels. The downtown area is filled with restaurants, bars and cafes, as well as many interesting shops, galleries and bookstores and even a short visit will allow you time to see many things. Even in late fall and winter, most of the museums and other attractions are open.

Be sure to visit the Pier 21 National Historical Site, which is the "Ellis Island" of eastern Canada. The site includes a very interesting multi-media presentation about Canadian immigration, and gives a good sense of what it might have been like to be coming to an unfamiliar land, and probably never being able to return to home. Pier 21 National Historic Site, 1031 Marginal Road, Halifax, (902) 425-7770.

Anyone familiar with maritime history knows that the waters surrounding Nova Scotia have been the scene of many shipwrecks. The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic houses many permanent and temporary maritime and shipwreck exhibits, including "Titanic: The Unsinkable Ship" and "Halifax Wrecked, the Story of the Halifax Explosion." There are also interactive exhibits that allow the visitor to experience what it must feel like to be on various oceangoing vessels. Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, 1675 Lower Water Street, Halifax, (902) 424-7490.

After all of this walking around, head for the Granite Brewery, a great brew pub in downtown Halifax, with a wide selection of local brews and a menu of hearty food. Granite Brewery, 1222 Barrington Street, Halifax, (902) 423-6303.

If you would like to explore other areas of Halifax, or the surrounding towns, the public transportation system, Metro Transit, is excellent, so there is no need for a car. In addition, seasonal ferries travel from Halifax to Newfoundland, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island.