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The Amtrak Adirondack

It is my opinion that the Amtrak Adirondack line affords the best scenery in the country, although I know fans of California's Coast Starlight would argue with that opinion. Nonetheless, I doubt anyone would suggest that the Adirondack is not a thoroughly enjoyable and relaxing way to get from New York City to upstate New York or Montreal.

Unfortunately, all Amtrak trains leave from the truly dreadful Penn Station and not from the gloriously restored Grand Central Station. There is an old New Yorker Magazine cover which contains a drawing of the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Station, filled with travelers and lots of skis propped against the walls. Clearly these travelers are about to board the train, most likely the old Delaware & Hudson line, and head for the ski slopes. You can still take the Amtrak Adirondack, as well as the Ethan Allan, the Vermonter and the Empire Service to the ski areas, but alas, not out of Grand Central Station.

After leaving New York City, the train follows the Hudson River north. Keep an eye on the riverbanks, and you will see some of the mansions built in this region during the 1800's, when the railroad made it possible for successful businessmen to commute from New York City.

You might also see the "Clearwater", the beautiful sloop operated by Clearwater, Inc. which provides environmental education and advocates for cleaner water and a safer environment along the Hudson. This organization was founded in 1966 by musician Pete Seeger, and offers environmental education trips aboard the sloop.

The food on the Amtrak routes varies considerably, both in menu and quality, and the food on the Adirondack is tops in both categories. The train features a Café Car, with menus in both English and French. Much of the delicious food, wine and beer is produced right in the various regions along the train route, such as the Hudson and Champlain Valleys.

The train stops in Albany, New York's capital. If you are traveling from Boston to Montreal, you need not pick up the Adirondack in New York City, but can take the Lake Shore Limited from Boston to Albany and change at Albany for the Adirondack.

If you have a couple of days to spend along the route, I would suggest staying over either in Saratoga Springs or Glens Falls. Saratoga Springs has historically been the summer home of many New York City major arts organizations, including the New York City Opera, and the New York City Ballet. Probably the most well known activity in Saratoga Springs is horse racing, but the town developed as a destination mainly because visitors started coming to experience the mineral hot springs. Saratoga Springs also has some excellent cross country ski trails.

Glens Falls sits along the Hudson, at the lower tip of Lake George. You can explore the history of the Adirondack region at the Chapman Historical Museum and at the Hyde Collection. Although Lake George features a large array of summer activities, it is also a wonderful place to visit in the winter. There are snowshoe trails and cross-country skiing, and the West Mountain downhill ski area is just seven miles from the train station. The historic and beautiful Sagamore Resort is on Lake George.

When you travel through this region, you will be traveling through one of the most historic regions in the country. Whitehall and Ticonderoga are towns that stood on center stage during the Revolutionary Way. Near the Westport station is Lake Placid, home of the 1932 and 1960 Winter Olympics. Plattsburg, on the Saranac River, has one of the most extensive collections of historic architecture in the state and played a key role in early American history.

Be aware that you will go through customs if you are traveling all the way to Montreal, and be prepared by bringing along appropriate documents.

I know you will thoroughly enjoy the wonderful journey from the Big Apple to Montreal, the most European of North American cities. In my next column, I will share some ideas to help you make the most of your time in Montreal.